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Online Boutique U 294 - sartaleLycle - 08-28-2025
John Lobb is one of the leading manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a shoemaking capital in the 17th century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the methods developed in the 1800s.
Modern machines are present but secondary. For example, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife touching the cutting table. With traditional knives, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is intentionally small, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only 60% of each hide is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The range combines heritage designs with contemporary tweaks. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen double monks gained elongated straps and a reinforced sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in the mid-20th century, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah trainers, which are offered annually in different shades and textures.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb remains one of the pillars in English shoemaking.
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